Glacier climbing course

Day 1:
Introduction and Dry Ground Practice
We begin the glacier climbing course by driving from Quito to our ATE Base Camp, located just 30 minutes outside the city. Upon arrival, participants receive an introduction to mountaineering, including essential climbing knots, rope use and care, and safety fundamentals. The day continues with practical exercises on dry ground, where students learn rope handling and belay techniques in a controlled environment.

Day 2:
Rescue Skills and Team Systems
After breakfast at 7:00 a.m., the day is dedicated to rescue techniques and rope team travel. Participants practice self-belay, self-arrest, and team arrest methods, along with snow and ice anchor construction. Later, the group focuses on self-rescue systems and team-rescue simulations. All exercises take place on dry ground to build a strong foundation for glacier practice.
Topics covered include:
Self-rescue systems
Team rescue systems
Basic and technical equipment overview

Day 3:
First Glacier Practice and Crevasse Rescue
In the morning, we drive to the glacier on either Cotopaxi or Cayambe. This marks the first glacier session of the course. Participants begin using their technical equipment on snow and ice, applying the skills learned on previous days.

The main focus is crevasse rescue, practiced at the edge of an actual crevasse. The full afternoon is devoted to executing real-time rescue scenarios. After the session, we return to the refuge for dinner and rest.

Day 4:
Glacier Navigation and Ice Climbing
We depart the refuge at 8:30 a.m. and return to the glacier. Today’s objectives include glacier navigation, route finding, and crevasse field travel. Participants take the lead in rope teams, practicing hazard evaluation and team management.
The day also includes:
Simulated crevasse rescue scenario
Ice wall climbing session using top-rope anchor systems
Lead climbing practice
Belay systems on steep terrain

In the late afternoon, we hold a summit planning meeting. The group reviews the climbing route, divides responsibilities, and prepares gear, food, and rope teams for the ascent. Dinner is served around 5:00 p.m., followed by early rest before summit day.

Day 5:
We wake up at 1:00 a.m. for a light breakfast before starting our summit climb. Participants lead the ascent as appropriate, putting all the techniques into action under instructor supervision.

Depending on conditions, the summit takes 6–8 hours to reach, followed by a 3–4 hour descent. Upon returning to the refuge, we enjoy a full breakfast and begin packing for the trip back to Quito.

Note:
Every effort will be made to adhere to the itinerary, but unforeseen circumstances may require last minute changes. Weather conditions, road conditions, vehicle breakdowns and the health of climbers can all contribute to schedule alterations. Please be prepared to be flexible when necessary.